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Serum:everything you need to know #3

And my face oil, is it also a serum?

“There is no real definition of serum in terms of preparation and dosage. You can put just about anything you want in it as long as it's fluid, concentrated and used in combination with a cream,” Jean-Claude Le Joliff quips. From the moment it is a fluid that improves the effects of the face cream, it can be likened to a serum, whether it is an oil, a gel or an emulsion. For a long time, aromatherapy brands such as Decléor, Darphin and even Clarins have been offering oils composed of vegetable oils and essential oils that are hyperactive. Serum style, then.

Can I use it for the eye area?

Okay. As a general rule, we avoid. “Admittedly, ophthalmic tolerance tests are carried out for all serums, reassures Nadine Leconte, but there are often up to 8 active molecules in them and that is a lot for this part of the face with thin and fragile skin. This is why the eye contours are specifically formulated for this area, with more extensive tests. In addition, the product risks migrating into the eyes. However, some serums, like Clinique's Laser Focus Repairwear, advertise their best results on crow's feet wrinkles. So do your own experiment and, if it tingles, limit the application to the rest of the face. Good to know:there are now serums specially formulated for the eye area, such as AOX Eyes from SkinCeuticals or the LiftActiv Serum 10 Eyes &Eyelashes from Vichy.

Anti-wrinkle, repairing, mattifying, radiance… how do I choose it?

It all depends on what you want to correct first:a dull and tired complexion? Skin texture? The first wrinkles? Hydration? One opts for a serum according to one's main concern. If you hesitate, you can always go for a skin diagnosis (using a probe and supporting camera that show the level of hydration, wrinkles and spots…impressive!) in a perfumery or on a department store stand to know what your skin needs first. This is the case on the stands of Lancôme and

Shiseido or at Marionnaud with Ioma or at Etat Pur. We are sometimes surprised by the result...