What is an INCI list? - NUOO

The INCI list corresponds to the enumeration of the ingredients that make up a cosmetic product. Zoom on this essential element of the world of beauty to know.

What does INCI mean?

INCI stands for “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients”. This is an exhaustive list of the ingredients of a beauty product . Created in 1973, its inscription on cosmetic packaging became mandatory in 1999. Since then, beauty products must imperatively display the list of all the ingredients that compose them.

What is the INCI list for?

Thanks to the INCI list, it is possible to know the exact composition of a cosmetic. In this way, one can easily spot allergenic elements and avoid chemical or controversial products. This list also makes it possible to dissociate organic and conventional cosmetics. The INCI list follows precise rules, which sometimes makes it difficult for consumers to understand. In order to name the ingredients, Latin is generally used for plant extracts, and English for molecule names and common names.

How to read an INCI list?

On an INCI list, the ingredients are listed in descending order, i.e. in reverse order of concentration. The first ingredient in the list therefore corresponds to the most present element in the formula. Note that due to trade secrets, the exact concentrations are not listed on the packaging. The first item on the list is very often water, which is usually the major component of beauty treatments. In addition, it is very common that the first five or six ingredients listed represent more than 70% of the total composition of the cosmetic. Be aware that below 1%, the elements are no longer classified in order of dosage, but in the order chosen by the manufacturer. By convention, the scented elements are grouped together under the name of perfume, without adding more details. As for dyes, they are designated by a five-digit number.

How to use the INCI list to know if a beauty product is natural?

As the ingredients are listed in order from the largest quantity to the smallest, the first ingredients on the list will be crucial to know the quality of a treatment. For example, if among the first ingredients listed, you see polluting and synthetic materials, that is not a good sign. This means that a substantial part of the composition of the product uses controversial elements. In addition to the INCI list, you can rely on organic certifications and labels that appear on cosmetics. In order to be able to recognize a natural beauty product of a potentially irritating or toxic product, it is necessary to know some problematic ingredients.

What are the elements to avoid in cosmetics?

To help you choose natural beauty products, we give you some ingredients that are better to banish from your bathroom. For example, sulfates are generally to be avoided. They appear under the names of sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate or ammonium lauryl sulfate. These are surfactants, which stabilize the formulas and allow the products to lather. Their problem is that they are very irritating, and can therefore lead to adverse effects on the skin. Parabens, used as preservatives, are also elements that are not recommended because they are suspected of being endocrine disruptors. They are found under the names of Butyl paraben, Propyl paraben, or Ethyl paraben. Other preservatives should be avoided, including BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene). They are found under the codes E320 and E321. It is also recommended to ban polyethylene glycol, known as PEG. It is a thickener used in particular in hygienic products and moisturizing creams. It is suspected of causing skin allergies. The same goes for PPG, propylene glycol, which can become toxic at high doses. Treatments containing phthalates, such as Dibutyl phthalate and Diethyl phthalate, should also be avoided. They are found in particular in perfumes, hair products and nail polishes. Considered endocrine disruptors, they are likely to cause precocious puberty in young girls. Finally, silicones are not recommended. Ending in -icone or -iloxane, they are a big source of pollution because of their very long biodegradability. And in addition to being a threat to nature, they clog the pores of the epidermis and prevent it from breathing. By banishing it from your cosmetic products, you kill two birds with one stone:you preserve the environment, as well as your skin.